Hermès, the iconic chaine d'ancre design

  • The birth of the “chaine d’ancre “ design :

In 1937, Robert Dumas - who later became CEO of Hermes in 1951 after the death of his father in law - by observing boats along the Normandy coast got interested by the design of the anchor holding them.

Hermès
Stamping on a “chaine d’ancre” tableware porcelain piece

Deeply inspired by this design, he quickly thought about turning this marine element into a jewelry design. Eventually Hermès released in 1938 the first “chaine d’ancre” bracelet which immediately became a huge success even though silver jewels weren’t that popular at that time.

Workers making the Titanic's anchor chain at Hingley & Sons, circa.1909

Ever since it has become an iconic design declined in multiple of variations such as rings, necklaces, earrings and so on and in various materials ranging from silver to gold combined with diamonds for the most luxurious pieces. We may also find this design printed on multiple items such as Carrés, tableware or apparel.

A steel shackle from the upper triboard anchor of the passenger liner France, mounted on a teak base
© Artcurial

  • Bracelets signatures over time :

Vintage Signature
Italic hand engraved “Hermès Paris” signature on the bracelet clasp (no serial number).

2000s signature
Hand engraved capital letter “Hermès” logo on a link and silver 925 hallmark on the clasp (no serial number).

Current Signature
Machine engraved capital letter “Hermès” logo on one of the links with the addition of serial numbers and producer stamp.

 
  • Different bracelets materials :

Hermès
A silver 925 chaine d’ancre silver bracelet
© Sotheby’s

Hermès
A Silver and Gold Chaîne d'Ancre Bracelet, circa 1980
© Bonhams

Hermès
A 18K gold chaine d’ancre bracelet
© Christie’s


Hermès
A rare silver chaine d’ancre sterling bracelet with one leather link
© MILLON

  • Bracelets variations :

Hermès
A rare vintage “chaine d’ancre géant” silver bracelet
© PIASA

Hermès
A rare 925 silver “Parade” bracelet
© Nice and Smooth

Hermès
Vintage silver 925 chaine d’ancre bracelet with four marine charms
© Artcurial

Hermès
A 925 silver "Tintamarre" bracelet
© HVMC

Hermès
A silver 925 “chaine d’ancre punk” bracelet
© Artcurial

Georges l’enfant for Hermès
A rare 18k white gold “chaine d’ance” bracelet
© Aguttes

Georges l’enfant for Hermès
A rare 18k YG gold “chaine d’ancre” bracelet
© Artcurial

Hermès
A silver 925 “Alea” bracelet
©Rossini

Hermès
A silver “Parisienne” chaine d’ancre bracelet
© Artcurial

  • Rare “chaine d’ancre” watches :

Hermès Sahida & Eterna Matic
Bracelet watch for woman " Chaîne d'ancre" in silver, round box, equestrian handle. Mecanical movement
Circa 1960
© Artcurial

Hermès and Baume & Mercier
A gold manual winding lady's watch
© TAJAN

  • Other accessories inspired from the “chaine d’ancre” design :

Hermès
Vintage keychain silver representing "Chaine d'ancre" links.
© Drouot estimations

Hermès
A silver “chaine d’ancre” ring
© Artvalorem

Hermès
Anchor chain key ring In 925 silver
© Jakobowicz & Associés

Hermès
A rare silver 925 charm
© Nice and Smooth

Hermès
A vintage 18k gold chaine d’ancre farandole brooch
© Lot Art

Hermès
A pair of silver 925 vintage cufflinks
© Artcurial

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