Hermès, the iconic chaine d'ancre design
The birth of the “chaine d’ancre “ design :
In 1937, Robert Dumas - who later became CEO of Hermes in 1951 after the death of his father in law - by observing boats along the Normandy coast got interested by the design of the anchor holding them.
Hermès
Stamping on a “chaine d’ancre” tableware porcelain piece
Deeply inspired by this design, he quickly thought about turning this marine element into a jewelry design. Eventually Hermès released in 1938 the first “chaine d’ancre” bracelet which immediately became a huge success even though silver jewels weren’t that popular at that time.
Workers making the Titanic's anchor chain at Hingley & Sons, circa.1909
Ever since it has become an iconic design declined in multiple of variations such as rings, necklaces, earrings and so on and in various materials ranging from silver to gold combined with diamonds for the most luxurious pieces. We may also find this design printed on multiple items such as Carrés, tableware or apparel.
A steel shackle from the upper triboard anchor of the passenger liner France, mounted on a teak base
© Artcurial
Bracelets signatures over time :
Vintage Signature
Italic hand engraved “Hermès Paris” signature on the bracelet clasp (no serial number).
2000s signature
Hand engraved capital letter “Hermès” logo on a link and silver 925 hallmark on the clasp (no serial number).
Current Signature
Machine engraved capital letter “Hermès” logo on one of the links with the addition of serial numbers and producer stamp.
Different bracelets materials :
Hermès
A silver 925 chaine d’ancre silver bracelet
© Sotheby’s
Hermès
A Silver and Gold Chaîne d'Ancre Bracelet, circa 1980
© Bonhams
Hermès
A 18K gold chaine d’ancre bracelet
© Christie’s
Hermès
A rare silver chaine d’ancre sterling bracelet with one leather link
© MILLON
Bracelets variations :
Hermès
A rare vintage “chaine d’ancre géant” silver bracelet
© PIASA
Hermès
A rare 925 silver “Parade” bracelet
© Nice and Smooth
Hermès
Vintage silver 925 chaine d’ancre bracelet with four marine charms
© Artcurial
Hermès
A 925 silver "Tintamarre" bracelet
© HVMC
Hermès
A silver 925 “chaine d’ancre punk” bracelet
© Artcurial
Georges l’enfant for Hermès
A rare 18k white gold “chaine d’ance” bracelet
© Aguttes
Georges l’enfant for Hermès
A rare 18k YG gold “chaine d’ancre” bracelet
© Artcurial
Hermès
A silver 925 “Alea” bracelet
©Rossini
Hermès
A silver “Parisienne” chaine d’ancre bracelet
© Artcurial
Rare “chaine d’ancre” watches :
Hermès Sahida & Eterna Matic
Bracelet watch for woman " Chaîne d'ancre" in silver, round box, equestrian handle. Mecanical movement
Circa 1960
© Artcurial
Hermès and Baume & Mercier
A gold manual winding lady's watch
© TAJAN
Other accessories inspired from the “chaine d’ancre” design :
Hermès
Vintage keychain silver representing "Chaine d'ancre" links.
© Drouot estimations
Hermès
A silver “chaine d’ancre” ring
© Artvalorem
Hermès
Anchor chain key ring In 925 silver
© Jakobowicz & Associés
Hermès
A rare silver 925 charm
© Nice and Smooth
Hermès
A vintage 18k gold chaine d’ancre farandole brooch
© Lot Art
Hermès
A pair of silver 925 vintage cufflinks
© Artcurial